We made our last turn on to the Great Ocean Road as the sunset was exploding over barren Australian landscape in a wash of fire orange, sea coral and bruised violet. Wild ocean raged just 200 meters beyond the edge of land to the south. We drank the view in for the last time and then settled back for the 2-hour return drive to our hotel. Fidgeting with our music and maps, we both looked up at the same exact moment to see an adult kangaroo pounce across the highway just yards in front of our car, backlit by the glorious sunset. Through squeals and screams of delight, we high-fived each other and shouted “best year ever!!!”

One highway-hopping kangaroo, five sleepy koalas, a slew of kamikaze cockatoos, and one sweet, Aussie hitchhiker were among the highlights of our exciting wildlife encounters. The chance to discover Australia’s unique flora and fauna was one of the major draws for our Australian road trip adventure. And the Road delivered.

The GOR winds along the southeastern tip of Australia through 150 miles of stunning ocean views, wild surf beaches, quaint seaside villages, clumps of koala-dotted eucalyptus trees, waterfall hikes, and stretches of barren, rugged Australia. Just an 80-minute drive from the Melbourne Airport, you can hire (that's "rent" for you North Americans) a car and be at the unofficial start of the GOR in the time it takes to nurse a large coffee and listen to one Florence + The Machine extended album.

Driving the Great Ocean Road along Australia’s southern coast with my best friend will go down as legend in my life’s Epic. And it only took a day and a half.

Traditionally those visiting the Great Ocean Road stay overnight at different towns along the drive. However, we decided to bunker down for both nights of our journey in Lorne. Logistically, this meant arriving at our accommodation for both nights late afternoon on the first day, and then on the second day driving out to Port Campbell and back to Lorne. We both felt this was a totally feasible way to see the hits of the GOR in what amounts to about 36 hours, or two nights on the road. You can, of course, pack up and stay at the next town on your journey. Some people take two weeks to do the Great Ocean Road, but the way we did it is an easy and convenient way to see the main sights under a time restraint.

Our Itinerary

DAY 1 AFTERNOON: MELBOURNE AIRPORT TO LORNE 

We flew into Australia the morning of our GOR adventure and so began our journey at the Melbourne Airport. Below are the notable places we stopped (or wished we didn't stop *coughTorquaycough*) on the drive to our accommodation. 2-hour drive, plus 30 minutes for sightseeing and coffee

• Torquay - This surf town sits 30 minutes north of the start of the Great Ocean Road. As we discovered after making a quick stop here for coffee and pastries, surf towns apparently don’t know how to make croissants or decent coffee. They DO, however, know how to sell bathing suits. Home to international apparel icons like Quiksilver and Ripcurl, this town plays gleefully to the surfer crowd with an entire shopping mall called the Surf Coast Plaza, and for the truly enthusiastic, a Surf World Museum. So if you’re in the market for a wetsuit, stop here to mosey around the unending surf shops and grab a mediocre coffee. Otherwise, take the 6-8 minute detour to snap a photo at Bells Beach and then continue on to what you actually came here to see.

• Anglesea - So long, mediocre pastries and uninspiring views! Hello, Anglesea. This town is the official start of the Great Ocean Road. Therefore, be prepared to start the exciting cycle of pulling over onto the purpose-built shoulders every 5-10 minutes for photos of the ever-increasing splendor of the Great Ocean Road.

• Great Ocean Road Memorial Arch - This Arch serves as a memorial for the soldiers who built the Great Ocean Road (the whole road is a war memorial for the soldiers who died in WWI -- making it the largest war memorial in the world). The arch is 15-20 minutes past the town of Anglesea, and, obviously, stopping at this arch to take a string of selfies was a must. Plan to do the same.

• Lorne - This sweet, picturesque town is where we decided to stay while traveling the Great Ocean Road. In my pre-trip research, I discovered that this is the favorite GOR town for good eats with lovely restaurants and cafés. There are also plenty of stunning sights located near the town (such as Erskine Falls or Teddy's Lookout) for your sight-seeing pleasure.

• Erskine Falls - Located 10km from our Lorne hotel, we visited the waterfall after check-in. We were happy to hike down to the waterfall at dusk because we stood in complete, blissful silence surrounded only by the sound of water meeting earth and the feel of dense fog on our skin.

DAY 2 MORNING: LORNE TO APOLLO BAY

The stretch from Lorne to Apollo Bay offers some of the most photo-worthy views on the drive and we stopped frequently during this one-hour leg of the journey (it helped that the sun was out in its full, glorious force on that winter day.) 1-hour drive,  2.5 hours for stops (including lunch)

• Skene’s Creek - We managed to find a beachside spot near Skene's Creek to attempt some acro yoga photos. The patch of beach where we stopped was absolutely stunning (at this point, are you surprised?), and in the summer, I suggest planning a picnic for the midday meal and maybe even a swim. But in the chilly winter weather, acro was all we could manage before moving on to the next spot. 

• Kennett River Koala Walk - Yes, you read that right--a koala walk. There is a lovely walking path near the Kennett River seaside village that is also a happening koala hangout. Be prepared when you drive through Kennett River-- there's no “koala-sighting” sign and not much around the unassuming turn-off that would let you know that you're in the right place for spotting adorable, little fur balls (as well as heaps of cockatoos and parrots who will fly up and eat out of your hand!). But any well-researched tourist knows Grey River Road is the turn-off for koala-spotting. Park the car by the general store (conveniently named Kafe Koala) and then follow the road up a hill to the left of the store (if it's not busy, you can also drive up). If you’re there alone, keep your koala eyes on. If there are other tourists on the path, just find a group who is stopped and looking up at the trees and then follow their gaze. They’ve most likely found a koala or two high in the eucalypts. We found three koalas here. 

The "Koala Walk" at Kennet River

Wildlife of the Kennett River Koala Walk

We had only set off from the Koala walk for 5 minutes when Kaitlin said, “now that I know how high those fluffy suckers hang out in the trees, I highly doubt we would ever just see one while we’re driving along the Great Ocean Road.” Not 4 seconds later, she said “OMG! There’s a koala!”

The little guy was hanging out on a low branch in a leafless eucalyptus tree, right next to a shoulder on the road, so we pulled over and took a series of excited “koala in the wild!” photos. Being passed by honking tour buses with disappointed-looking tourists envious of our great koala find was perhaps the most grateful I was to have the freedom of a car and our own schedule on the GOR.



DAY 2 AFTERNOON: APOLLO BAY TO PORT CAMPBELL

By the time we reached Apollo Bay and had a leisurely lunch at a creperie, we needed to get going to fit in the most spectacular and famous sights of the Great Ocean Road: The Gibson Steps, The Twelve Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, The Grotto, and The Arch. All are located around Port Campbell National Park about 5-15 minutes from each other along the GOR. And all deserve as much of your time and attention as you can afford. They’re magnificent and awe-inspiring and will make you believe in the God of big and small things (or the scope of time and science, if that’s your thing). 75-minute drive, 3+ hours for stops

• The Gibson Steps - The first of the famous Great Ocean Road sights, we missed it looking for signs for Twelve Apostles. Womp womp. Don’t make the same mistake.

• The Twelve Apostles - We'll let the photos below be an example of why this is the most famous spot on the Great Ocean Road. It’s a right turn-off for the heavily crowded carpark and then an easy 5-minute walk down to platforms where you can view the incredible limestone formations standing proud in the ocean from a few different angles. Even in winter, we had to jostle the masses of tourists to get a spot where we could take a photo. Like most over-touristed sights, the crowds of unending selfie-takers ruined some of the magic of the place. If this isn’t your jam, I suggest taking extra time on the GOR and plan to be at this spot early in the morning before the tourist buses arrive and unload. Even still, we found the sight truly spectacular—a gorgeous view like none other. 

 

• Loch Ard Gorge - Another lovely spot for photos (are we being redundant yet?). We met an Aussie in Melbourne who said whenever he visited Loch Ard Gorge, he would walk to the bottom and write things in the sand and climb back up to take photos of what I'm sure were very lovely and appropriate words. You could do the same. Or just take acro photos like we did.

• London Bridge, The Arch, and The Grotto - By the time we made it to these spots, the crowds had thinned out to a whisper of couples and small families who we met at each location, smiling in passing with a “see you at the next spot!” This was much more peaceful and in the thinning of the masses, we were able to enjoy the views with more serenity. Do not underestimate how crowds will affect your experience if you’re the type who likes to breathe in the wonders of the world in silence. We much preferred the sights we saw later in the day and most likely, you will too.

When we finished up at the Grotto, the aforementioned glorious sunset sung us sweetly home. We pulled out from the Grotto carpark onto the GOR for the last time, and then headed towards the A1 highway to take an alternative and faster route back to Lorne for the night.

You can head back to Melbourne the following morning. Or, as we did, journey on to the gorgeous Yarra Valley (more on that soon!).

Ultimately, the Great Ocean Road is one of the most stunning drives in the world, and can be done at a leisurely pace over several days (or weeks) to incorporate the host of amazing hikes and sights along the way, but can also be fully experienced in the most gorgeous 36 hours of your life.

Logistics

Transportation - We absolutely recommend renting a car for your journey. You can, of course, travel the road in a crowed tour bus. But not only would you then be on a crowded tour bus (really, need we say more?), you would also be tied into stopping and going with the tour group--obviously that makes for a much less leisurely and enjoyable experience.

Phone/GPS - We purchased a SIM card from Optus, a store in the Melbourne Airport right outside the exit for customs. If you have an American cellphone, you're going to need to get it unlocked in order to use this SIM (grrr freaking America). Obviously, this is also what we used as our GPS -- you might be able to go without cellphone service or the ability to post to Instagram immediately, but the GOR will be infinitely easier to navigate with a GPS. Do yourself a favor and just get an Australian SIM card.

Accommodation - We found a great Groupon deal in Lorne for an apartment-style accommodation nestled among the cockatoos and eucalyptus trees. The two-night stay included a room-delivered continental breakfast on both mornings as well as a bottle of wine (if you haven't used groupon for booking accommodation, do so starting NOW). We were very happy with our decision to stay in Lorne for it's convenient location on the GOR and our cozy accommodation.

Food

Dinner - For our first night, we stopped by the grocery store (“Foodworks,” located directly on the GOR in Lorne) and grabbed what we needed to make a meal in our apartment. We were also able to grab some fruit for snacks on the road the following day.

Breakfast - Fortunately, we didn't have to worry about getting breakfast because our accommodation provided a continental breakfast (delivered to our room!). But we did stop for a caffeine fix before hitting the road. FYI, The Bottle of Milk makes a divine flat white…and it’s an adorable seaside café to boot.

Lunch - We stopped in Apollo Bay for lunch and happened upon Waves, a creperie where we were able to get affordable and delicious vegetarian fare. We definitely recommend it if you're passing through Apollo Bay for lunch!

Dinner - We ordered a pizza on our way back to Lorne (calling 15 minutes before closing because we have awesome timing) at the aptly named restaurant Pizza Pizza. Their pizza was exceedingly delicious--perhaps Christy's favorite part of the GOR trip! Ok, not really, but she did go on her own pizza tour while backpacking through 16 European countries so she knows a thing or two about good pizza, and particularly how necessary a damn good pizza can be after a long day of traveling. Lorne did not disappoint.

Tips

• Australia drives on the LEFT. Don’t be a dumdum about this. 
• Petrol stations are scarce. Don’t be a dumdum about this. We left Melbourne on a full tank and filled up at a station near the end of the GOR in Port Campbell. The road back to Lorne winds through backcountry No Man’s Land of Australia and you’ll see little-to-no signs of life at night until you reach the town of Colac, more than an hour’s drive away. So, please do fill up before you head back so you don't wind up stranded in middle-of-nowhere Australia.
• If driving the GOR in one direction only, drive East to West (Anglesea to Port Campbell). The ocean views and the shoulders will be on the left, along your side of the road.
• As we took our journey mid-winter, we had very limited sunlight hours to work with—the sun sets at about 5:00 pm in July. Taking the road trip in summer (December-February) will buy you hours of sunlight and guaranteed fair weather, but you’ll be fighting the crowds and the tour buses along the way.
• There are fewer crowds at the highlights during early morning and early evening. Most one-day tour buses drive in from Melbourne in the morning and head back after seeing the 12 Apostles around 3:00 or 4:00 pm. If you’re hoping to have a certain spot all to yourself for photos, plan accordingly.
• The sunset is absolutely stunning over London Bridge and the Grotto. Budget your day to finish at these spots for sunset.

• Falling rock is common along the west-east, cliff-hugging side of the Great Ocean Road. Be warned.
• Keep your koala and kangaroo eyes on at all times. Koalas hang out high in the eucalyptus trees that line the GOR in the rainforest areas. You can spot them by finding V-shaped nooks in the trees that have a grey ball of fluff in the middle. Kangaroos, on the other hand, are unpredictable and great care should be taken when driving on any of the highways around the GOR. Like deer in the States, they can hop out in front of you at any time. Stay alert, and in control, and hopefully you’ll get the privilege of sharing the road with a springy roo. At night, drive slower with your brights on and don’t be a kangaroo-killer. The only low point of our journey was finding a dead kangaroo on the side of the road at night.
• There are festivals and surf events throughout the year in many of the GOR towns. Check to see what you may be interested in to get even more bang for your traveling buck. For my money, I’ll go back in the next couple years to catch the Port Fairy Folk Festival (annually in March)!

Cost 

Car rental: We kept the car three days, but for two days with full insurance coverage (and you want the full insurance coverage, because didn’t you hear me about those kangaroos?) it was roughly $175 AUD

Accommodation: For two nights (room-delivered breakfast included for both mornings and a bottle of wine for the first night) it was $189 AUD

Petrol: Roughly one tank at about $60 AUD

Food/coffee: $95

Australian SIM card and data for 7 days: $15 AUD

Total Cost: $534 AUD ($267 per person)




Websites for Further Reading:

Visit Melbourne- Great Ocean Road

Highlights of the Great Ocean Road

Visit Lorne 

Lonely Planet- Great Ocean Road

TULLE SKIRT - AUTUMN

Military Jacket: Decjuba (similar)
Tulle Dress: American Rag

Shirt: Cotton On

Shoes: Pulp Noir

Purse: Badgley Mischka

Christy is very forgiving: she's had her tulle skirt post ready to go for about six weeks. You know, back when it was actually her springtime. God love her, she's been so patient with me while I struggled to keep up my end of the blog deal last month. But here we are! Tulle skirts! In spring, in autumn! Kind of.

Here in New Zealand, we had a pretty rough autumn. Freezing rainstorms galore. I've not been very impressed. But you know what makes god awful weather bearable? Tulle skirts and gloriously fleece-lined tights. That's how you make your tulle work in cold weather: cozy tights and military jackets.

The tulle skirt is actually a tulle dress, which I often disguise by layering blouses and sweaters over the top, because-- versatility.

Thanks to my mother, I also now have a grown-up, autumn-appropriate handbag. She gifted me this Badgley Mischka gem when I (finally) finished my Master's degree earlier this year. It's smooth and wine-colored in a way that makes me want to be constantly holding a glass of Pinot Noir in the other hand while I'm out and about with it. The gold and quilt details are the stuff of handbag dreams.

I honestly can't wait for the earth to move on its axis and give us the sun back. Until then, tulle and wine-colored everything, and prayers for a gentle winter ahead.

TULLE SKIRT - SPRING

Dress: Forever 21

Top: H&M

Blazer: J. Crew Factory

Shoes: Just Fab

Clutch: Target 

Rings: Etsy (France, Oui)

There’s something frivolous and fun about tulle skirts that always make me feel so indulgently adorable when I wear them. I think that’s why I became so attached to the tutu I packed when I backpacked through Europe for a summer. Without fail (regardless of when the last time I showered was, or if I had just wasted a whole day hitchhiking without getting a lift), putting on a tulle skirt made me feel like I was killin’ it. And they still have that effect on me.

This tulle dress in particular though…buying it was a serious win for my closet. It is the perfect mix of feminine, fancy, and fun while being deceptively comfortable. And, until it’s socially acceptable to sloppily wrap yourself in your bedsheets and call that getting dressed for the day (a girl can dream), I will always be on the hunt for pretty dresses that make me feel like that's what I'm doing. This tulle dress ranks high in that category.

Obviously, a tulle skirt was also the best way to break in my new blazer. (Pinterest trend for the win!) I bought this blazer this past winter when the $3 Goodwill blazer I bought in college literally began to fall apart at the seams. Not much makes me feel more like a grown-ass woman than discarding my thrift store blazer for a brand new J. Crew one. Also, using the phrase grown-ass woman--that’s right, I curse when I want and buy overpriced clothes. Grown-up world, I have arrived! Albeit in the most girly and whimsical way possible.

NEW ZEALAND WORKING HOLIDAY: THE FIRST STEPS

Three years ago, I moved to New Zealand on what amounts to little more than a whim. I had just come out of the most emotionally challenging stage of my life and I decided that I needed to get away for a year. Far away! So I spun the globe, bought a plane ticket, traveled 8,000 miles, and arrived in this little island country with two suitcases, no friends, and not a single clue. As it turns out, it was the best decision I have ever made.

View of Auckland City from One Tree Hill

Whatever stage of life you find yourself in, if you’re thinking about spending the next year as a long-term tourist in the loveliest country on earth, I want to give you helpful advice on how to make the most of it. As crafty explorers, Christy and I are launching this travel series to address many of the logistical concerns travelers have before embarking on an overseas adventure. For my part, the greatest adventure of my life has been moving to New Zealand and connecting with the heartbeat of Kiwi life; for Christy, her adventures in Europe have made her an incredible resource on how to dance across a continent on a dime.

View from Waiheke Island toward Rangitoto

In the coming weeks, Christy and I will outline how to plan for a 3-month backpacking trip in Europe, and a year in New Zealand, respectively, by addressing the issues that matter: 

• relevant visas
• booking flights and airline information 
• valuable tips for specific international customs
• what to pack
• where to go
• what to do
• how to get around
• where to stay
• how to find work
• how to budget
• and all the other ‘ins and outs’ of life abroad, including cell phone plans, how to open a bank account, and how to cope with language barriers

Our hope is that you embark with a plan that makes you feel travel-savvy and safe, so that you can focus on making the most out of every moment without any unpleasant surprises!

Huka Falls

Sorting Your Visa

If you are planning to visit New Zealand for a period of 3 months to a year and you possess a passport from one of these 42 qualifying countries, you will be eligible to apply for a visa under the Working Holiday scheme. Each country is given specific eligibility requirements for age, duration of stay, and proof of available finances; do thoroughly explore your country’s rules before applying.

For Americans, it is generally easy to acquire a one-year Working Holiday visa, provided you have:

• not been granted one before (you get one per lifetime, so use it well!)
• are not a hoodlum (“meet character requirements”)
• are between the ages of 18-30
• and have proof of $4,200 in available funds

Wait, what? Yes, you may be expected to prove your financial status upon entering the country. Similar to Christy’s explanation for why you should have a recent bank statement on your person at immigration counters, a sufficient bank balance proves you are able to cover expenses for a year of living in NZ, as well as purchase a return flight home. What Kiwis do not want is your gap year to turn into a situation in which you are a broke free-loader, or worse, an overstayer. You are, in most cases, not required to show proof of a return ticket upon entering New Zealand, but they may ask pointed questions about how you intend to look after yourself financially and/or if you have funds to purchase an outbound ticket. If you don’t have $4,200 cash, try to look extra clean and put-together and hope they don’t ask to see your bank statement.

To minimize bureaucratic nonsense, the Working Holiday visa is not issued as an official sticker in your passport, as most visas are. After you apply online, you will receive notification of your status in an email and then you will be able to print off your visa. BRING THIS WITH YOU every single time you enter the country. On a flight home to Auckland from Melbourne, Australia in 2012, I was hassled substantially at the check-in counter for "trying to enter NZ without plans to leave." I was really startled at the way the airline attendant spoke to me as if I was a dirty con-artist. After a few minutes of utter confusion and escalating tones, I stated in exasperation, "but I live there! I can stay until March 2013!" I then dug in my purse for the ratty old visa print-off and handed it to the attendant who snapped, "oh, well why didn't you say so sooner?!" Turns out, overstayers are a big problem and the airlines are under strict orders to flag suspicious persons at check-in. Just make everyone's life easier and bring this document with you every time you travel. 

Apply online here: New Zealand Working Holiday

Mt. Ruapehu/Mordor, Tongariro National Park

Working on Your Working Holiday Visa 

Under the Working Holiday scheme, you are eligible to seek employment in absolutely any industry you are qualified for. However, most employers will recognize you are on a temporary visa, so you may find employment difficult outside of the industries with high turnover rates such as hospitality, childcare, tourism, fruit picking, and construction/tradies. Most Working Holidayers find a part-time or full-time job in these fields, but it is not uncommon to find placement in IT, teaching, marketing, film, etc. Know how to sell your skills and you could find an appropriate industry job.

That being said, please keep in mind that Immigration NZ has designed this visa scheme for holidays. Most immigration agents will place emphasis on the fact that the country does NOT want you finding a serious job. New Zealand wants you to come for an extended holiday, rent a cute little van, tour the country and see the sights, maybe pick some apple trees to make a little extra cash, and then… LEAVE. I’m the kind of Working Holidayer that NZ absolutely does not want: the kind that doesn’t go home. I have Residency now and have always had legal and timely visas, but the point is that I arrived on a Working Holiday visa in 2012 and NZ quite prefers if those who arrive on these visas pack up and leave within 12 months (sorry you got stuck with me, New Zealand, but honestly I’m quite the catch). Further, Kiwis can be a little protective about good jobs going to non-New Zealanders. It's not something they freely admit to, but they go to great lengths to ensure there are no Kiwis capable of a job before they hire an international employee. The Working Holidayers are not supposed to swoop in and score a hot job. Be sure to stress to Immigration upon arrival that your mission in NZ is to see some waterfalls and go for a few hikes, not for any sort of career advancement.

If, after 12 months, you love New Zealand and don’t want to leave, there are options for visa extension or new visas depending on your situation. For my part, I recommend falling in love with a Kiwi citizen.

Booking Your Flight

I originally flew to New Zealand on the cheapest... and most outlandishly awful flight of all time. Clearly our youths are the time to make bad decisions and take horrific flights just to save $100. I'm a little older, and wish to punish myself a little less now, so I've learned the less painful ways to fly to NZ from the States. 

Air New Zealand's direct flights from LAX (or San Francisco) to Auckland are WORTH IT. You board a plane in Los Angeles at 10 or 11 pm, they give you a nice meal while you watch a movie, placate you with amazing NZ wines, and then you go to sleep and arrive 12 hours later in Auckland feeling fresh and ready for adventure. Just be good to yourself and book this flight. Bonus: Air NZ is the greatest airline in the world.

Do remember that New Zealand's high season is the southern hemisphere summer: December-February. Tickets skyrocket during this time as airlines capitalize on the northern hemisphere tourists who are trying to escape their winters.

Once you're here, you may fancy a flight to some of the other destination cities like Queenstown or Wellington.  There are only two airlines which operate domestic flights: Air New Zealand and Australian-based airline, Jet Star. The best websites for booking domestic New Zealand flights are:

• Skyscanner -- the travel search engine my partner prefers
• Grabaseat -- Air New Zealand's own "deal" site, where you can get awesome prices on flash bargains if your travel plans are flexible. I once flew Auckland to Wellington for $33 each way. That's amazing. 
• House of Travel -- a Kiwi travel company which hosts pretty awesome domestic deals online 

Kiwi Crossing in Tongariro National Park

What You Need to Know About New Zealand Customs

Alternate title: Do Not Effing Bring Your Fruit into New Zealand.

This country has strict, STRICT biosecurity laws. Would you like to know why? Because irresponsible travelers bring one little orange onto the island and then bam!… a fruit fly epidemic threatens an entire nation’s crop production and its $4-billion export industry. Then, a million-person city has apocalyptic regulations of fruit movement imposed on it for months. No joke, they call it the "fruit fly lockdown," and if you live in an affected suburb, you aren't allowed to transport fruit in and out of the boundaries--that means no bananas in your school lunchbox, kid!

No, future visitors of New Zealand, I am not kidding-- and yes, it is serious business. Customs agents do not mess around with the presence of food, live cultures, or even dirt in your luggage or on your person. You will be found and you will be heavily fined. 

Over the years of traveling to and from New Zealand and hosting visitors from abroad, I've become increasingly obsessive about what I bring with me from overseas, and what my friends and family do. Obviously, I don't want to be fined thousands of dollars for an oversight, but it's more than that. I've now taken on the crazy Kiwi mentality of protecting this heartbreakingly beautiful, hyper-sensitive little ecosystem we call Aotearoa. 

Don't risk our environment by forgetting you packed an apple for a mid-flight snack. Dispose or Declare every single risk-item you bring with you. I've seen a woman taken away for "questioning" for failing to declare a box of unopened chocolates. Start your holiday right, and leave all food and unclean outdoor equipment behind. Please and thank you.

Milford Sound, Fiordland

When you're planning to spend a year abroad, there's heaps to consider before you even leave home, but I promise it'll be so worth the effort. There's adventure waiting for you in this magical land where the pure, good life is still revered. 

Canyoning and cliff jumping in the Waitakeres

Summit of the Tongariro Crossing (we began the hike at 5am to be the first to reach the famous Emerald Lakes)!

On the 19.4 km Tongariro Crossing hike!

BACKPACKING THROUGH EUROPE: THE FIRST STEPS

Backpacking through Europe has been far and away one of the most fun, adventurous, and enriching experiences of my life. All of my overseas journeys, but in particular my backpacking trip, challenged, stretched, and delighted me in ways that I never expected—I cannot stress enough how rewarding trips like these can be. If you have the time and money (of which you don’t need loads! My own backpacking trip only cost me $2,000, airfare included), a trip like this will be one of the best experiences of your life.

Ghent, Belgium

I've always been drawn to foreign cultures and unfamiliar lands, a wanderlust that only grew stronger as I began traveling abroad when I was 18. Kaitlin, too, is an avid traveler and this passion we share is one of the things that instantly bonded us when we first met. Based on our own travels, we’ve decided to write a travel series that we hope will function as an extensive source of information to enable and encourage those considering an extended overseas trip. We’ve decided to write about what we know best—Kaitlin will discuss the ins and outs of spending a one year working holiday in New Zealand while I detail the necessary preparations and considerations for backpacking through Europe for 3.5 months.

Zakrzowek, Krakow, Poland

In this post, I’ll cover important logistical information to take into account when you first start to plan your own epic adventure, from understanding the visa requirements and planning your itinerary accordingly to knowing what you need to smoothly make it through customs. The topics I discuss in this post are essential to the beginning stages of planning—I would recommend that you begin the steps I’ve listed below 3-5 months before your intended departure date.

Lake Constance, Uberlingen, Germany

Understanding Visa Requirements

An important factor before you begin planning your itinerary is understanding the visa requirements for the countries you will be visiting. Most of the countries in the E.U. form a zone known as the Schengen Area. The amount of time you are permitted to travel in this area (as well as the countries that are not included in this area) without a special visa will greatly affect your travel plans.

What is the Schengen Area and why does this matter?
The Schengen Area is group of 26 countries in Europe that have open borders with one another. This means you can move freely from country to country while traveling within this area without having to deal with border patrol -- as easy as crossing State lines in the US. However, on a US passport, without a special visa, you are only allowed to stay in the Schengen area for 90 days in any 180 day period (otherwise risk a fine and deportation).

The 26 countries in the Schengen Zone:
Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, & Switzerland

Map of the Schengen Area

The good news is not every country in the E.U. has signed the Schengen agreement (God bless you, UK and Ireland!). Days you spend in the countries listed below do not count towards your 90 day limit.

Countries that have "opted out" of the Schengen agreement:

• United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland) 
• Ireland

Countries that are not a part of the Schengen area but are in the process of joining:

• Bulgaria
• Croatia
• Cyprus
• Romania

You can stay in each of these non-Schengen E.U. countries for 90 days without a special visa, except for the UK where you can stay 180 days.

So, if you plan wisely, you can stay in the EU for more than 90 days. For instance, I backpacked through Europe from mid-May to the beginning of September (around 110 days total). To avoid spending more than 90 days in the Schengen area, I flew into Dublin and traveled through Ireland and the UK for two weeks before entering the Netherlands. A week before the end of my trip I flew from Norway to the UK. Traveling around the UK/Ireland at the beginning and end of my trip made it so of the 110 days I spent in the EU, my total time in the Schengen area was just under 90 days.

For more information/tips on long-term travel in the E.U., obtaining extended Schengen visas, a list of which countries are lax or strict about checking how long you've been in the Schengen area, check out these articles:
How to legally stay in Europe for more than 90 days & Long term Europe travel

For information on American passport holder visa requirements for European countries that are not a part of the E.U. or for more information on any of the countries that are listed above, visit The US State department's website.

Luxembourg City, Luxembourg 

Booking Flights

Because of the warm weather, long days, and extended school breaks, summer is the ideal season for backpacking through Europe. (Not to mention, no one wants to lug all that extra winter gear around in an already crammed backpack.) Of course, millions of other tourists feel the same way, so airline ticket prices can literally double in the summer. Here are a few tips to save money on airfare to Europe in peak season:

• Either book an outbound flight for May or a return flight for September. Doing this easily saved me $700+ on my backpacking trip. Peak travel times are June-August, so if you can fly into or out of Europe before or after these months (ideally both if you’re staying that long), tickets will be significantly cheaper.
• Check multiple arrival airports to see which one offers the cheapest flights. Unless you have to fly into a specific destination, look up ticket prices for various European airports. I’ve found that flying into London is generally the cheapest (eat your heart out, Paris), but for my particular backpacking trip it was actually cheaper to fly into Dublin. We therefore planned our trip itinerary to begin and end in Ireland.
• Book at least 3 months in advance. Any time less than 3 months and ticket prices start going up dramatically. I just booked overseas tickets for a trip I am taking two months from now. I waited a week in between when I first checked the ticket prices and when I actually booked, and within that week the prices went up by $200.

Between the price variation of booking early as well as flying into one airport versus another, booking your flights should be one of the first steps of planning your trip. Even before you plan your full itinerary, look at pricing of different flights. Planning your journey around when/where you fly will allow you to pay less for your airline tickets.

My favorite airfare websites:

• STA Travel - As a student, I always used this site to book overseas flights. They have special discounts for students and teachers that make it cheaper than booking through other travel websites.
• Kayak - Now that I am no longer a student, I find the best deals on Kayak. I recently purchased tickets to New Zealand (for my upcoming trip with Kaitlin! Wahoo!) and I checked various travel websites before booking. Kayak.com led me to the cheapest tickets quickly and easily. 
• The Flight Deal - With this website, you select from a list of departure airports and it will show you all applicable flight deals. If you have a very specific destination/departure date, then this isn't the site for you. But if you’re flexible on where/when you want to arrive, definitely peruse the deals on this site before booking.
• Iceland Air  - Though Iceland Air doesn’t necessarily offer you cheaper airfare, they do offer a free stopover in Reykjavik when flying to any other European destination. If you’d like to see Iceland during your European travels (and duh of course you would), this is a great way to do it without having to purchase extra plane tickets.

Sections of the Berlin Wall, Berlin, Germany

Getting Through Customs

Although getting through customs certainly doesn't seem like it needs to be addressed months before the start of your trip, there are items that are essential for immigration that you can't simply get the day before (*coughpassportcough*). In the months leading up to your journey, make sure you obtain the items I've listed below and you'll get through customs much more smoothly:

• A valid passport.  One of the first things you should do after deciding to go on a backpacking trip is get a passport.  Processing time for passport applications is 4-6 weeks, not including delivery. Be on the safe side and apply for one as soon as you decide you want to travel. And for those of you who have well-used passports, it's important to know that for entry into the Schengan Area, your passport must be valid for a minimum of six months from the day you arrive and have at least one blank page for the entry stamp. 
• Return flight details. Assuming you've already booked your return flight, print a copy of the flight details to show to customs in case they ask. If you haven't booked a departure ticket, consider doing so before you arrive. When I studied in France, I flew into London and spent two weeks there before my semester started. I had yet to buy my departing train ticket when I arrived in London since I wasn't sure of exact day I was going to leave. The customs agent did not let me through easily, and I fear what would have happened if I didn't have my French student visa in my passport. In general, immigration doesn't give you a hard time if they know you’ve already shelled out the cash to leave their country. 
• A copy of your bank statement. Very often customs agents want to know how much money you have to fund your trip, so you don't wind up broke and unable to leave the country. Although I've never had to show my bank statement (though, in the situation mentioned above I was asked how much money I had to fund my trip), it's a handy document to have, especially if you don't have an outbound ticket. Make sure you have enough money to show that you can cover your expenses while you’re in Europe as well as purchase a ticket out of there if you haven't already. 
• The address of the place you will be staying, whether that be with a friend, a CS/HelpX/WWOOF host, or in a hotel/hostel. If you don’t have an address, it’s not the end of the world but they won’t give you as hard of a time if you do. (DO NOT mention couch surfing/WWOOFing/HelpXing to the customs agent — just say you are “staying with friends.” Although there is absolutely nothing illegal about any of these organizations, immigration officers tend to be very suspect of them, so it’s best not to bring it up if you don’t have to.)

The above list is what I’ve generally found to be necessary for my European travels (mostly flying into and out of London, where the customs agents tend to be particularly difficult). However, remember to check if the country you’re flying into has any special requirements in order to enter. For instance, it turns out that for my Australian trip I'm about to take, I need to apply for a visa before I go. This would not have crossed my mind if Kaitlin hadn’t mentioned it to me. So, double check the entry requirements of the countries you plan on visiting before you leave (fortunately, since most of Europe functions as one country in terms of visa requirements, this makes checking it very simple).

My co-backpackers and I fully support your backpacking goals!

See? Planning your backpacking trip isn't that hard! (Ha!) Ok, ok, there is still much more you need to consider before you can set off on your European adventure but this should hopefully get you started on the right track. The good news is I plan on writing at length about everything you should take into account when backpacking through Europe (such as budgeting, packing, languages/cultural barriers, destination recommendations, logistical information, and so on).

And in case the above pictures didn't excite your wanderlust enough, here's just a few more to really get you in the mood for taking an epic European journey...

Dublin, Ireland

Prague, Czech Republic

Paris, France

Brussels, Belgium

Bern, Switzerland 

Bergen, Norway  

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

ROASTED ASPARAGUS, MUSHROOM AND SHALLOT SOY-FREE VEGAN MINI QUICHES

Roasted Asparagus, Mushroom and Shallot Mini Quiches
    Makes 12 mini quiches

Ingredients:

• 1 pre-prepared vegan pâte brisée (pie dough), recipe below*

Filling

• 4 oz button baby portobello mushrooms, diced
• 1/2 bunch asparagus, trimmed and chopped into 1” pieces
• 2 medium shallots, halved lengthwise and thickly sliced
• 3 medium cloves of garlic, crushed
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1/2 tablespoon balsamic glaze or balsamic vinegar (I definitely prefer glaze, but if you use it just make sure you find one that is dairy-free)
• Coarse salt and fresh cracked pepper

"Egg” mixture (adapted from this recipe)

• 1/2 cup chickpea flour
• 1 1/4 cups water
• 1/3 vegetable stock cube (1 full cube should make 2 cups stock)
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 1/2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
• 1/4 teaspoon salt (according to the original recipe you can add black salt/kala namak to give it more of an egg flavor. However, I couldn’t find black salt in any of the stores near me so I went without and it still tasted great.)

Method:

Preheat oven to 400 F. Roll out the pie dough on a floured surface until it is about 1/8 inch thick. Cut out twelve 4" circles (I used a mug with a 4" diameter to cut the circles into the desired size. But you could also use a cookie cutter, a small bowl/tupperware container, etc). Press the circles into a 12-cup muffin tin. Using a fork, poke several holes at the bottom of each pie crust and blind bake for 10 minutes (I chopped up the vegetables while I was baking the crust).

Preheat oven to 425 F. In a large bowl, combine chopped vegetables and toss with olive oil, balsamic glaze, salt, and a generous amount of fresh pepper. Spread veggies out on a cookie sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes until asparagus is bright green and tender. (As an aside, these roasted veggies are absolutely delicious on their own or tossed over a bed of mixed greens. I kept snitching them after they came out of the oven - I’m surprise there were actually any left for the quiche.)

Now make your eggless/soyless quiche mixture!

Whisk together the chickpea flour and 1/2 cup of water and set aside. In a small saucepan, add the final 3/4 cup of water, the stock cube, nutritional yeast, turmeric, and salt. Once the water comes to the boil, slowly add the chickpea mixture while stirring continuously. After all the mixture has been fully combined, lower the heat and stir until the mixture becomes thick and glossy (about 1-2 minutes). Remove from heat and add the roasted vegetables to the "egg" mixture.  Mix well and spoon into the individual pie crusts.

Bake at 425 F for 20 minutes. Remove from oven, brush with melted earth balance, and return to oven for another 5 minutes.


*Vegan Pie Crust
Ingredients:

• 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 cup (2 sticks) earth balance
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

Method:

Cut butter into small cubes and chill in freezer for about 10 minutes. While butter is chilling, combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips (you can also use a fork, a pastry cutter, or even a food processor instead of your hands) until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 1/4 cup of the ice water and continue to work the mixture with your fingertips until dough comes together in moist clumps. If the dough is too dry, work in more water 1 teaspoon at a time until you reach the desired consistency. Gather dough into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm, at least 1 hour.

I'm constantly torn between craving the positive health effects of eating a vegan diet and simply craving cheese. I've been on-again-off-again vegan for many years, and I'm still not sure which I love more -- cheese or good health. I'm off the vegan bandwagon at the mo but recently I've been contemplating diving back into veganism. Which is why, after Kaitlin and I decided to make quiche this week, I wanted to attempt a vegan version (and because I love a challenge — pretty much the whole reason I got into vegan cooking in the first place). Since most store-bought vegan imitation meat/dairy products are soy-based, I try to avoid soy in my own cooking when I can, both because I think it's important to consume varied sources of protein and also because, like I said, I love a challenge.

Fortunately, these soy-free vegan quiches were a success! I kept a few in my fridge to eat during the week and froze the rest for my potential return to veganism. However, one of my first thoughts after biting into my quiche was "all this needs is bleu cheese and it would be perfect." So, that return to veganism might be much farther off than I planned. Or maybe attempting a vegan bleu cheese is in order (the immense difficulty but awesome payoff of that challenge is already luring me in...stay tuned, I may soon blog a vegan bleu cheese recipe).

Bleu cheese or not, this vegan quiche is pretty amazing. To see a more traditional quiche (that DOES include bleu cheese omgyes), check out Kaitlin's recipe for caramelized onion, zucchini, and blue cheese quiche.