One highway-hopping kangaroo, five sleepy koalas, a slew of kamikaze cockatoos, and one sweet, Aussie hitchhiker were among the highlights of our exciting wildlife encounters. The chance to discover Australia’s unique flora and fauna was one of the major draws for our Australian road trip adventure. And the Road delivered.
The GOR winds along the southeastern tip of Australia through 150 miles of stunning ocean views, wild surf beaches, quaint seaside villages, clumps of koala-dotted eucalyptus trees, waterfall hikes, and stretches of barren, rugged Australia. Just an 80-minute drive from the Melbourne Airport, you can hire (that's "rent" for you North Americans) a car and be at the unofficial start of the GOR in the time it takes to nurse a large coffee and listen to one Florence + The Machine extended album.
Driving the Great Ocean Road along Australia’s southern coast with my best friend will go down as legend in my life’s Epic. And it only took a day and a half.
Traditionally those visiting the Great Ocean Road stay overnight at different towns along the drive. However, we decided to bunker down for both nights of our journey in Lorne. Logistically, this meant arriving at our accommodation for both nights late afternoon on the first day, and then on the second day driving out to Port Campbell and back to Lorne. We both felt this was a totally feasible way to see the hits of the GOR in what amounts to about 36 hours, or two nights on the road. You can, of course, pack up and stay at the next town on your journey. Some people take two weeks to do the Great Ocean Road, but the way we did it is an easy and convenient way to see the main sights under a time restraint.
Our Itinerary
DAY 1 AFTERNOON: MELBOURNE AIRPORT TO LORNE
We flew into Australia the morning of our GOR adventure and so began our journey at the Melbourne Airport. Below are the notable places we stopped (or wished we didn't stop *coughTorquaycough*) on the drive to our accommodation. 2-hour drive, plus 30 minutes for sightseeing and coffee
- Torquay - This surf town sits 30 minutes north of the start of the Great Ocean Road. As we discovered after making a quick stop here for coffee and pastries, surf towns apparently don’t know how to make croissants or decent coffee. They DO, however, know how to sell bathing suits. Home to international apparel icons like Quiksilver and Ripcurl, this town plays gleefully to the surfer crowd with an entire shopping mall called the Surf Coast Plaza, and for the truly enthusiastic, a Surf World Museum. So if you’re in the market for a wetsuit, stop here to mosey around the unending surf shops and grab a mediocre coffee. Otherwise, take the 6-8 minute detour to snap a photo at Bells Beach and then continue on to what you actually came here to see.
- Anglesea - So long, mediocre pastries and uninspiring views! Hello, Anglesea. This town is the official start of the Great Ocean Road. Therefore, be prepared to start the exciting cycle of pulling over onto the purpose-built shoulders every 5-10 minutes for photos of the ever-increasing splendor of the Great Ocean Road.
- Great Ocean Road Memorial Arch - This Arch serves as a memorial for the soldiers who built the Great Ocean Road (the whole road is a war memorial for the soldiers who died in WWI -- making it the largest war memorial in the world). The arch is 15-20 minutes past the town of Anglesea, and, obviously, stopping at this arch to take a string of selfies was a must. Plan to do the same.
- Lorne - This sweet, picturesque town is where we decided to stay while traveling the Great Ocean Road. In my pre-trip research, I discovered that this is the favorite GOR town for good eats with lovely restaurants and cafés. There are also plenty of stunning sights located near the town (such as Erskine Falls or Teddy's Lookout) for your sight-seeing pleasure.
- Erskine Falls - Located 10km from our Lorne hotel, we visited the waterfall after check-in. We were happy to hike down to the waterfall at dusk because we stood in complete, blissful silence surrounded only by the sound of water meeting earth and the feel of dense fog on our skin.
DAY 2 MORNING: LORNE TO APOLLO BAY
The stretch from Lorne to Apollo Bay offers some of the most photo-worthy views on the drive and we stopped frequently during this one-hour leg of the journey (it helped that the sun was out in its full, glorious force on that winter day.) 1-hour drive, 2.5 hours for stops (including lunch)
- Skene’s Creek - We managed to find a beachside spot near Skene's Creek to attempt some acro yoga photos. The patch of beach where we stopped was absolutely stunning (at this point, are you surprised?), and in the summer, I suggest planning a picnic for the midday meal and maybe even a swim. But in the chilly winter weather, acro was all we could manage before moving on to the next spot.
- Kennett River Koala Walk - Yes, you read that right--a koala walk. There is a lovely walking path near the Kennett River seaside village that is also a happening koala hangout. Be prepared when you drive through Kennett River-- there's no “koala-sighting” sign and not much around the unassuming turn-off that would let you know that you're in the right place for spotting adorable, little fur balls (as well as heaps of cockatoos and parrots who will fly up and eat out of your hand!). But any well-researched tourist knows Grey River Road is the turn-off for koala-spotting. Park the car by the general store (conveniently named Kafe Koala) and then follow the road up a hill to the left of the store (if it's not busy, you can also drive up). If you’re there alone, keep your koala eyes on. If there are other tourists on the path, just find a group who is stopped and looking up at the trees and then follow their gaze. They’ve most likely found a koala or two high in the eucalypts. We found three koalas here.
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| The "Koala Walk" at Kennet River |
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| Wildlife of the Kennett River Koala Walk |
We had only set off from the Koala walk for 5 minutes when Kaitlin said, “now that I know how high those fluffy suckers hang out in the trees, I highly doubt we would ever just see one while we’re driving along the Great Ocean Road.” Not 4 seconds later, she said “OMG! There’s a koala!”
The little guy was hanging out on a low branch in a leafless eucalyptus tree, right next to a shoulder on the road, so we pulled over and took a series of excited “koala in the wild!” photos. Being passed by honking tour buses with disappointed-looking tourists envious of our great koala find was perhaps the most grateful I was to have the freedom of a car and our own schedule on the GOR.
DAY 2 AFTERNOON: APOLLO BAY TO PORT CAMPBELL
By the time we reached Apollo Bay and had a leisurely lunch at a creperie, we needed to get going to fit in the most spectacular and famous sights of the Great Ocean Road: The Gibson Steps, The Twelve Apostles, Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, The Grotto, and The Arch. All are located around Port Campbell National Park about 5-15 minutes from each other along the GOR. And all deserve as much of your time and attention as you can afford. They’re magnificent and awe-inspiring and will make you believe in the God of big and small things (or the scope of time and science, if that’s your thing). 75-minute drive, 3+ hours for stops
- The Gibson Steps - The first of the famous Great Ocean Road sights, we missed it looking for signs for Twelve Apostles. Womp womp. Don’t make the same mistake.
- The Twelve Apostles - We'll let the photos below be an example of why this is the most famous spot on the Great Ocean Road. It’s a right turn-off for the heavily crowded carpark and then an easy 5-minute walk down to platforms where you can view the incredible limestone formations standing proud in the ocean from a few different angles. Even in winter, we had to jostle the masses of tourists to get a spot where we could take a photo. Like most over-touristed sights, the crowds of unending selfie-takers ruined some of the magic of the place. If this isn’t your jam, I suggest taking extra time on the GOR and plan to be at this spot early in the morning before the tourist buses arrive and unload. Even still, we found the sight truly spectacular—a gorgeous view like none other.
- Loch Ard Gorge - Another lovely spot for photos (are we being redundant yet?). We met an Aussie in Melbourne who said whenever he visited Loch Ard Gorge, he would walk to the bottom and write things in the sand and climb back up to take photos of what I'm sure were very lovely and appropriate words. You could do the same. Or just take acro photos like we did.
- London Bridge, The Arch, and The Grotto - By the time we made it to these spots, the crowds had thinned out to a whisper of couples and small families who we met at each location, smiling in passing with a “see you at the next spot!” This was much more peaceful and in the thinning of the masses, we were able to enjoy the views with more serenity. Do not underestimate how crowds will affect your experience if you’re the type who likes to breathe in the wonders of the world in silence. We much preferred the sights we saw later in the day and most likely, you will too.
You can head back to Melbourne the following morning. Or, as we did, journey on to the gorgeous Yarra Valley (more on that soon!).
Ultimately, the Great Ocean Road is one of the most stunning drives in the world, and can be done at a leisurely pace over several days (or weeks) to incorporate the host of amazing hikes and sights along the way, but can also be fully experienced in the most gorgeous 36 hours of your life.
Logistics
Phone/GPS - We purchased a SIM card from Optus, a store in the Melbourne Airport right outside the exit for customs. If you have an American cellphone, you're going to need to get it unlocked in order to use this SIM (grrr freaking America). Obviously, this is also what we used as our GPS -- you might be able to go without cellphone service or the ability to post to Instagram immediately, but the GOR will be infinitely easier to navigate with a GPS. Do yourself a favor and just get an Australian SIM card.
Accommodation - We found a great Groupon deal in Lorne for an apartment-style accommodation nestled among the cockatoos and eucalyptus trees. The two-night stay included a room-delivered continental breakfast on both mornings as well as a bottle of wine (if you haven't used groupon for booking accommodation, do so starting NOW). We were very happy with our decision to stay in Lorne for it's convenient location on the GOR and our cozy accommodation.
Food
Dinner - For our first night, we stopped by the grocery store (“Foodworks,” located directly on the GOR in Lorne) and grabbed what we needed to make a meal in our apartment. We were also able to grab some fruit for snacks on the road the following day. 
Lunch - We stopped in Apollo Bay for lunch and happened upon Waves, a creperie where we were able to get affordable and delicious vegetarian fare. We definitely recommend it if you're passing through Apollo Bay for lunch!
Dinner - We ordered a pizza on our way back to Lorne (calling 15 minutes before closing because we have awesome timing) at the aptly named restaurant Pizza Pizza. Their pizza was exceedingly delicious--perhaps Christy's favorite part of the GOR trip! Ok, not really, but she did go on her own pizza tour while backpacking through 16 European countries so she knows a thing or two about good pizza, and particularly how necessary a damn good pizza can be after a long day of traveling. Lorne did not disappoint.
Tips
- Australia drives on the LEFT. Don’t be a dumdum about this.
- Petrol stations are scarce. Don’t be a dumdum about this. We left Melbourne on a full tank and filled up at a station near the end of the GOR in Port Campbell. The road back to Lorne winds through backcountry No Man’s Land of Australia and you’ll see little-to-no signs of life at night until you reach the town of Colac, more than an hour’s drive away. So, please do fill up before you head back so you don't wind up stranded in middle-of-nowhere Australia.
- If driving the GOR in one direction only, drive East to West (Anglesea to Port Campbell). The ocean views and the shoulders will be on the left, along your side of the road.
- As we took our journey mid-winter, we had very limited sunlight hours to work with—the sun sets at about 5:00 pm in July. Taking the road trip in summer (December-February) will buy you hours of sunlight and guaranteed fair weather, but you’ll be fighting the crowds and the tour buses along the way.
- There are fewer crowds at the highlights during early morning and early evening. Most one-day tour buses drive in from Melbourne in the morning and head back after seeing the 12 Apostles around 3:00 or 4:00 pm. If you’re hoping to have a certain spot all to yourself for photos, plan accordingly.
- The sunset is absolutely stunning over London Bridge and the Grotto. Budget your day to finish at these spots for sunset.
- Falling rock is common along the west-east, cliff-hugging side of the Great Ocean Road. Be warned.
- Keep your koala and kangaroo eyes on at all times. Koalas hang out high in the eucalyptus trees that line the GOR in the rainforest areas. You can spot them by finding V-shaped nooks in the trees that have a grey ball of fluff in the middle. Kangaroos, on the other hand, are unpredictable and great care should be taken when driving on any of the highways around the GOR. Like deer in the States, they can hop out in front of you at any time. Stay alert, and in control, and hopefully you’ll get the privilege of sharing the road with a springy roo. At night, drive slower with your brights on and don’t be a kangaroo-killer. The only low point of our journey was finding a dead kangaroo on the side of the road at night.
- There are festivals and surf events throughout the year in many of the GOR towns. Check to see what you may be interested in to get even more bang for your traveling buck. For my money, I’ll go back in the next couple years to catch the Port Fairy Folk Festival (annually in March)!
Cost
Car rental: We kept the car three days, but for two days with full insurance coverage (and you want the full insurance coverage, because didn’t you hear me about those kangaroos?) it was roughly $175 AUDAccommodation: For two nights (room-delivered breakfast included for both mornings and a bottle of wine for the first night) it was $189 AUD
Petrol: Roughly one tank at about $60 AUD
Food/coffee: $95
Australian SIM card and data for 7 days: $15 AUD
Total Cost: $534 AUD ($267 per person)
Websites for Further Reading:
Visit Melbourne- Great Ocean Road
Highlights of the Great Ocean Road
Visit Lorne
Lonely Planet- Great Ocean Road
